human_ortolan

Pea soup for the soul...

2010-04-19T09:48:00.000-07:00

Hey...my girlfriend can cook!

As the designated ~~control freak~~ foodie of my group of friends, sometimes other people don't get the chance to show off their culinary prowess when I am around. Well, I may just have to turn over the reigns more often. With the leftover ham bones from Easter, Liz made the most incredible split pea soup. Loaded with ham and served with freshly made croutons and buttered biscuits with honey...this was a meal that spoke directly to my soul.

The Pepsi egg....

2010-04-19T09:37:00.000-07:00

I haven't dyed Easter eggs since I was a little kid. This year I spent an afternoon with my girlfriend and her sister dying eggs and cooking the side dishes for Easter Sunday. This was a total accident. Apparently, I have a hidden talent. And I don't even like Pepsi.

Stuff yer face...

2010-04-19T09:30:00.000-07:00

Former Scarlet Knights Ray Rice, James Gandolfini and Calista Flockhart will know what I am talking about. Well...maybe not Calista Flockhart. Mario Batali Knows about it for sure...this place was his start in the restaurant business. Stuff Yer Face is an iconic eatery in New Brunswick, second only to the Grease Trucks in the pantheon of Rutgers gastronomy. Known primarily for the stromboli, a calzone-like dish named after a volcano in Italy, Stuff Yer Face was a regular haunt of mine during my abbreviated collegiate career. A great selection of beers to wash down the cardiac inducing 'boli doesn't hurt either.

However...on a recent trip...a new discovery was made.

A creation of such diabolical genius...such decadent ingenuity...even I had to look twice.

Potachos...

"like nachos,but...we use potato chips covered with cheddar, bacon, tomatoes, onions, ketchup and chives with sour cream."

Suddenly, I felt like Neo when he saw the Matrix for the first time. Have I been missing the world all this time? I thought I had tried, or at least thought of all the craziest most gut busting combinations possible.

Potachos...you have shown me a new way...

The last hurrah...

2010-03-22T11:04:00.000-07:00

So, my week without meat is over. As you may guess...I found very little blog inspiration during a week of salads, cheese and PB&J.
However...I've been saving this one for your reading enjoyment. My last meal...in a sense. I decided to go out with a bang.

Burgers stuffed with foie gras and black truffle mousse.

Yeah...they are as good as they sound.

A few bites in and suddenly, a molten center of foie gras bursts into your mouth and down your chin. A truly decadent last meal before entering the purgatory of a world with out meat.

Easy enough to make with some D'Artagnan Foie Gras and Black Truffle Mousse.

A healthy disk of mousse between two smaller patties...ok...not that much smaller. Make sure you form a tight seal so that you don't lose any of the molten center as they cook.

Top with some really good cheese, I used a mix of Gruyere and a sharp alpine style cheese. I like to grate and mix the cheese for even melting.

I prefer to cook these burgers inside. I like the seal and control you get from a pan over a grill. Get a good crust and finish them in the oven.

I served these with some freshly made sweet potato chips.

The final touches were some butter lettuce, a roasted tomato & garlic mayo and a lemony cole slaw to help cut through the richness of the burgers.

I know you want one.

You've got to know when to hold em'...

2010-03-14T10:41:00.000-07:00

So...I lost a bet.

A stupid bet.

I am a fool.

And now, for five long and agonizing days...

I will be a vegetarian.

No juicy steaks. No greasy burgers. No crispy fried chicken or overflowing pastrami sandwiches. No stuffed trotters or pork belly. No foie gras, chicken livers or duck confit. No pulled pork sandwiches, ribs or buffalo wings.
Not even sushi.

I have chosen poorly. And the timing...St. Patty's Day. Corned beef and cabbage. Not for me.

Thanks, Liz.

Stupid bet.

On quiet nights...

2010-03-13T09:07:00.000-08:00

On a slower evening at the restaurant, some friends came to dinner. This is the story of that night.

The amuse bouche.

A wonton filled with brandade, a puree of salted cod and potato.

Topped with lobster oil and a chiffonade of basil.

Roasted candycane beets with goats cheese, olive oil, balsamic & honey reduction.

This next course was extra fun as it literally came together on the fly. Rod was about to make a sea urchin and lobster roe mousse. So he took some of the lobster roe and quickly made a pasta. Note the change in color as it cooked.

He finished the dish with a bit more lobster roe and a lobster & turbot stock reduced with a bit of the sea urchin.

Finally, the dishes they actually ordered.

Roasted shrimp, dusted in black pepper.

Served on a bed of shaved fennel and apples tossed with juniper vinaigrette

Seared diver scallops over cepe mashed potatoes with truffle vinaigrette.

Roasted half chicken with haricots verts and a garlic, lemon and thyme jus.

Basically, my point is...stop by on a slow night and let's see what happens.

Alain Ducasse rates NYC french fries...

2010-03-12T10:58:00.000-08:00

Gotta love it...

My wish list...

2010-03-12T09:13:00.000-08:00

I thought I would put out a wish list of the places I want to eat at in the next few months. The weather is starting to get nice and I am getting antsy.

Locanda Verde...because who isn't going
The Breslin...again...this time for the pig
The Spotted Pig...because I need to write about those Bloody Marys
Blue Hill at Stone Barns...waiting for the spring
Ratz...also in the spring
Prune...I keep hearing great thing
Sushi Yasuda...because I can't afford Masa
Ward III...to visit Adela
The Bar Room at the Modern...going in 2 weeks
Roberta's...went to event there a few months ago...dying to go back
Commerce...also, been hearing good things
Momfuku...all of them...in one day...sounds fun, right?
Prime Meats...gotta get to Brooklyn
The Grease Trucks...because I owe it to Rod
Les Halles...I know he doesn't cook there anymore...but I still want to go

So...who's coming with me?

Nothing can kill The Grimace...

2010-03-12T08:49:00.000-08:00

This is kind of randomly food related...but I love it and it fits in my search for the perfect burger...and I just love it. From Clerks: The Animated Series

Tasting parties gaining momentum...

2010-03-11T07:56:00.000-08:00

So it looks like our monthly tasting parties are really starting to take off. This past week was restaurant week in Maplewood so we hosted a full week of our soon to be famous tasting parties. That's also why I've been too busy to post...these things take a lot of work.

For those that don't know, we set the room as one long communal table and serve a set seven course menu. Folks are encouraged to interact and meet new people. It tends to be quite a bit of fun...at least this writer for the NY Times seems to think so.

We topped this slice of Japanese Suzuki with lime, raisins and late harvest Gewurztraminer to create a type of ceviche or emince. we started each night with this dish and it set the tone. Simple, clean flavors. Bright and exciting. I could eat this all day.

Leek and potato soup with a mottled truffle cream. I love serving this dish because no one ever expects it to be quite as good as it actually is. From the color, you can see that the ratio of leek to potato is heavy on the leek side. This soup really tends to catch people off guard.

Roasted eggplant with Morrocan spices topped with a barely poached quail egg. Several people said that they don't like eggplant...and proceeded to clean their plates. Nuf said?

Oh yeah...can't forget desserts...

It's always tough for me to write about the dishes, since I don't get to sit and eat them.

How about this...leave a comment on this post about why you should be the guest commentator at the next tasting and I will pick my favorite to have a guest post.

Lunch for one...

2010-03-01T15:03:00.000-08:00

During my trip to the market for dinner today I happened upon these amazing double cut pork chops. Unfortunately, there were not enough available for my whole dinner party, so....a very special lunch, just for me. I scrounged around the house for something to pair with it.

Yukon golds on their last legs and a couple of mushrooms from tonight's menu went into the pan with some olive oil, rosemary, thyme and garlic. Seared the chop in the same pan and into a hot oven. At the end, I hit the pan with some white wine, cream and just a touch of tomato paste and reduced. I have to say, that sauce was right where I wanted it. Simple, luxurious and delicious. Not a bad lunch, just for me...

The truth about Charlie's...

2010-02-26T08:35:00.000-08:00

Anybody here been to Kenilworth, NJ?

Anybody been to Charlie's?

Let's fix that...

Charlie's is sells the most amazing sandwiches. Half a loaf of pizza bread stuffed with cheesesteak, hot dogs or sausages. Peppers and onions. All topped with fried potatoes.

My mother loved it.

My girlfriend loved it.

Even my friends from Philly loved it.

And you will love it.

Just knock some of the potatoes off and eat them like chips. Shove the rest in the sandwich and go to town. I highly recommend a cherry soda for your beverage.

The place itself used to be cooler when it was stuck in the 50's...but who cares.

The sandwich is where it's at.

I got a crush on this sandwich.

2010-02-26T08:20:00.000-08:00

I got a crush on this sandwich.
I made this video from some pics taken last year in the Dominican Republic. I felt remiss if I didn't share it with the rest of the world.
I am so sorry Eric, but you will soon become an international sensation. Prepare for the bombardment by paparazzi.
Just click the link above.

Almost perfect...

2010-02-25T16:21:00.000-08:00

Start with some beautiful ingredients...

cook them with care...

and then...

blow the final picture with poor lighting...

Oh well, it was almost perfect.

The Breslin...decadence refined...

2010-02-25T16:06:00.000-08:00

Why?

Why would they put me here?

I mean...right here?

So close to the kitchen...and more importantly...so close to the table reserved for large groups being served a whole roasted pig.

Did they really think I would be able to maintain my composure? With the smells of crackling pork wafting in my direction? With a man, mere feet away, yanking off the ear to snack on? With a menu that seems designed specifically with me in mind.

The Breslin has just lept into the pantheon of greats for me. Built around some of the most decadent dishes imaginable, The Breslin feels more like The Spotted Pig's big brother than the baby in the family. The spacious bar was already crowded when we arrived a bit before six on a Wednesday. Luckily, we beat most of the dinner crowd. We sat right next to the large table overlooking the kitchen. The table that has a limited menu. Whole pig and sides. Apparently, the pig's name was Owen, according to our server. Well, Owen...I am sorry we did not get to meet tonight...but soon I shall return.

The dining room is bigger than the Pig's, but you can see the family resemblance. Half the staff wore the Spotted Pig's iconic t-shirts. The decor was also eclectic and comfortable, though a bit cramped. On my next trip I would request one of the private booths with curtains and a dimmer to let you control the light. Or a table upstairs, which I hear is a bit less cramped...

Or THAT table...

The big one with the pig on it.

But I digress, back to the meal I actually had. The menu has a section labeled "Snacks", I suggest you start there. There was a nice selection of slightly obscure dishes to choose from, fom scotch egg to scrumpets. I think I could make a great meal just from this under$10 section of the menu.

We started with Fanny Bay oysters and dill pickle juice. Fanny Bays are my favorite and as good as the pickle juice was, I like my oysters straight up...so not a dish I would do again, but it was delicious.

Then we moved into my territory. Fried headcheese and scrumpets with mint vinegar. The headcheese was just what I was looking for when we picked The Breslin. The wonderful feeling of gelatin coating your mouth, the inherant pork flavor all surrounded by crispy, fried goodness. To quote the Hawaiian Punch guy, "Oh Yeah!"

The scrumpets were a first to me. Our server descibed them as looking like mozzarella sticks, but filled with braised lamb. Perfect. The lamb flavor was prevalent and the texture was great. It came with red wine vinegar loaded with fresh mint. Why do they serve that nasty mint jelly with lamb, the don't know that they should do it this way, I guess

Are we seeing a trend yet? Delicious, decadent food...fried? So what could be next?

Let's take a pig trotter, a whole foreshank really, and braise it. Then let's pull out all the meat and grind it with some braised shoulder. Then, let's stuff it back into to the skin and...deep fry it.

No, really.

First of all, this thing was huge, at least 12 inches. The outermost layer was crispy breadcumbs, followed by skin and a lyer of fat. Inside, the most delicate, most refined Scrapple on the planet. That is the only way to describe it. The dish was served with vinegary brussles sprouts and sweet braised shallots. We added on roasted fennel and thrice-cooked chips.

The service was charming and informed. David, our server, was helpful with suggestions and had a lot of fun with us.Several people came by for different reasons, and all seemed to be honestly excited to be serving this food. I personally can't wait to go back. I suggest you bring a larger group and sample as many dishes as possible. The one draw back of the pig's foot was that it was so much of the same thing. Bring some friends and try some things. I am looking foward to the charcuterie plate and scotch egg next time around.

Unless, of course, that next time is my inevitable visit to THAT table...the one with the pig on it...the one calling out to me....

A view from the grill...

2010-02-19T20:00:00.000-08:00

I am really glad I got that birthday dinner in when I did...that's our grill in the foreground.

Sad news...

2010-02-19T08:45:00.000-08:00

Well, folks, I am sure that most of you have received the sad news that El Bulli is closing.

I must admit, that it wasn't on my list of places to visit before I die, however, I now regret the fact that I will now never get the chance. It's like not seeing Avatar on an IMAX screen in 3D. It may not be exactly your cup of tea, but you are truly missing something if you don't have the experience. It is unique...unlike any other thing of the same nature. I have never been a fan of foams and airs, but that isn't all that El Bulli was about. Ferran Adria challenged long standing notions about what IS food/cooking. He stretched boundaries and inspired a generation of cooks to look beyond the box. While I may never get to El Bulli...perhaps a visit to Wylie is in order...you know...in the name of science...

On a much more personal note...

Shake Shack is not coming to Lower Manhattan.

Apparently the residents of Nolita have no interest in easy access to the most delicious burgers around. What is wrong with these people? Has the garlic gone to their brains? There are few things as satisfying as a Shack Burger. And few things as frustrating as the journey uptown that must accompany it. I know Danny Meyer plans on expanding the Shake Shack empire.

Good.
Put one on my block.
Please.

As if I wasn't on a hamburger kick already...I am now inspired to seek out the greatest burgers I can. I will share them with you my friends.

We begin our journey with Five Guys Burgers and Fries. Get yourself a Double Patty Bacon Cheeseburger all the way. Skip the cajun seasoning on the fries. Wash it all down with a Mr. Pibb. Get some extra napkins. You will need them. Not a bad way to tide myself over until I get to the Shack.

Just a link...

2010-02-12T09:54:00.000-08:00

There is a great article in the NY Times about one of my favorite varietals.

A look back...

2010-02-09T09:51:00.000-08:00

The invention of cooking is considered to be the single greatest step in the evolution of man.

Hardwired into our genetic makeup through centuries of evolution is an intense love of meat and fire. It may have allowed us to evolve, but few things get men grunting like the guy from Home Improvement faster than firing up the grill and throwing on a big piece of meat.

However, man has always had a respect for the process. The history of animal sacrifice is first documented in Crete in 2000 BC. The Minoans discovered guilt for killing a living thing and sacrificed part of the animal back to the gods.

So, for my birthday dinner, in thanks of the years on this Earth that I have been graced with, I boned out two legs of lamb and marinated them in garlic, thyme and rosemary. The meal was both reverent and primal.

However, I doubt that even the ancient Greek gods got these fantastic confit potatoes cooked in duck fat for 2 hours.

Thanks to all those in attendance for helping me ring in another year. And to all of you who couldn't make it...we look forward...

Tasting dinners...

2010-02-08T10:23:00.000-08:00

This week we hosted two tasting dinners at Luke's Kitchen.

Serving seven courses to thirty people with only two people in the kitchen and one in the front is a challenge to say the least. It is also a lot of fun.
We have committed ourselves to holding these dinners every month...so if you haven't been yet...you will get a chance soon.

The Tuesday night dinner was dubbed the "advanced" menu by Rod. Our guest list was filled with friends and family...all diners who know and trust us. We felt comfortable taking some more chances and challenging their pallettes. Sea urchin, frog's legs, sweetbreads and tripe were all featured. Many of these were first time experiences for our guests. I just wish I could have sat down to join them. Some of the highlights...

Sea Urchin and Lobster Custard

Just a small bite that started off the dinner. Bright clean flavors and a silken texture. This dish reminded me of my Oyster and Pearls course at Per Se.

Roasted Byaldi over Fennel and Onion Marmalade

I love this dish...amazing colors and great flavor. We served this with lamb chops and a honey and spice gastrique.

Frogs Legs

So many people have never had frog's legs. Their mild flavor makes them a safe gateway into trying new things. As the saying goes...they taste like chicken...almost. We served these with lobster and sweetbreads with lobster broth, garlic and basil.

Roasted Veal Breast

Melt in your mouth tender. Stuffed with prosciutto and bread stuffing. Wrapped in caul fat. This was absolutely decadent and delicious.

Per Se...

2010-01-31T20:47:00.000-08:00

Palms sweaty like a teenager going to his first school dance, my hands were shaking with excitement and nerves as I approached the famous blue door of Per Se.

I have been waiting for this for a long time.

Per Se is a Mecca for culinarians...a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The New York outpost of chef Thomas Keller. A serene oasis located in the midst of a Manhattan mall.

It is also where I had lunch today.

Our coats were taken and we were led past the salon to our table on the dais level of the dining room. We sat, not in chairs, but on a cushioned bench with a breathtaking view of Central Park. The dining room was smaller than I had always imagined, and quiet.

I can't tell you how nervous i was...almost awkward. This is out of my realm of expertise. A crowded room...hustle and bustle...controlled chaos...those are the traits I am most used to in the dining rooms I frequent. Again, I was taken back to those prepubescent days in a darkened school cafeteria, when each decision weighed heavy. Which wine to choose? Which menu tasting menu? Who do I dance with?

Well, at least this time I could count on some wine to help me relax.

We started with the famous Gruyere gougeres, light pastry filled with a molten cheese center. The salmon tartare cornets with creme fraiche, more delicate than I had imagined. My nerves were settling and the reality set in...I am eating at Per Se. Next, the famous Oysters and Pearls, another Keller signature, A taste of the sea and texture of a cloud. Now I was dancing to a song I knew...with the prettiest girl in school.

And then she kissed me...

'She' being the truffle custard with truffle ragout and chive chip.

It doesn't look like much...but, my God.

This dish was so rich, so smooth, so perfect. The ragout was sticky and unctuous, the heady aroma of truffles permeating the rich reduced veal stock. The custard just melted...ethereal ...ghostly on the tongue.
Even the chive chip, an aspect of this dish I had never considered exciting, was a revelation. Crisp, barely there, delicious.

I can die happy now. What could top this dish?

But wait...what's this? Is that foie gras? All of that? No, that can't ALL be foie gras can it? I've had foie gras...but not like this. That is practically a mound of fattened duck liver. Served with oat crisps, candied walnuts, persiminon puree and toasted brioche. Foie gras in a quantity that said, "Eat Me!" a quantity that encouraged you to slather...not savor. Paired with a vintage Sauternes, perhaps the epitomy of decadence.

A note on service...after a few minutes passed the servers replaced our toasted brioche. We weren't done with the brioche we had...it just wasn't warm anymore. That was one of the nicest touches of the night.

At this point I was literally rocking back and forth with my eyes closed, humming to myself. Really.

Columbia River Sturgeon over a whole mustard coleslaw that was sweet and vinegary and bright. The sturgeon had a flavor that I can only place as Kentucky Fried Chicken, only the very best part of the fat and skin. Also, the best carrots ever. Ever.

Next up, butter poached lobster, duck gizzard tortellini and sauce hydromel. This was the first course that wasn't an out of the park home run. The lobster was cooked to perfection, but I felt it was overpowered by the sweetness of the sauce. Hydromel is a sauce made with mead or honey-wine. It had some sort of asian flavors as well. The sauce paired better with the tortellini, which had an amazing texture and mouth feel, but not enough gizzard flavor for me.

But then...

We went behind the bleachers...

All Day Braised Salmon Creek Farm Pork Belly. Are you kidding me? This was amazing. Pork belly. By Thomas Keller. What did you think was going to happen? This was a no brainer for me. The unexpected surprise came from the Scarlett turnips. Served roasted, braised, confit and shaved raw...the flavors, textures and colors were breathtaking. Did I fail to mention the tempura fried turnip greens? Forgive me. Notice the knife in the picture, I almost forgot to take a picture on this one.

Snake River Farms Calotte de Boeuf. I believe that Calotte translates as "Oh my God, that's good." Not sure on that one. Perfectly cooked, tender and well seasoned. Served with the best Bernaise I have ever had. Do yourself a favor and read the essay on Hollandaise in The French Laundry cookbook. Also, the best beets ever. The real star of the dish...the pommes Bouchon...that's the cylinder in the back. Our server, Olivia, told us they are cooked for hours in stock and butter. I need to know more. I must know...

At this point I am in a reverie. It can't get any better...

So they start bringing me desserts. Plural. For another hour.

I have never eaten so many sweets in my life.

First was Peanuts and Popcorn...popcorn sherbet with ground popcorn and salt and pepper Virginia peanuts. Just like cracker jacks. This is part of why I love Chef Keller's philosophy. This man, who has dedicated his career to a search of perfection maintains a sense of whimsy and humor. I respect a chef who isn't afraid to be a bit irreverant and play with their food.

Hence, Coffee and Doughnuts.

I will follow the recipe.

I will follow the recipe.

I will follow the recipe.

The cappucino semifreddo was worth it.

More desserts...chocolate mousse...pot au creme...variations on pear...peanut butter truffles...creme brulee...caramels...tiny pulled sugar candies bursting with flavor...too much dessert. I asked our server which part of the floor I was allowed to roll around on. Please stop. My head is spinning. It hurts.Not another bite.

Wait...did you say curry chocolate candy? Olive oil white chocolate candy? Fennel? Pink peppercorn? Ok... maybe just a few more bites. The curry chocolate may actually have been THE highlight of this incredible meal.

And then, it was over. Stretched out over four hours...and gone in a flash.

Awash in a mix of emotions, unsure whether to laugh or cry. yearning for a chance to do it all over again.

So...yeah...just like a school dance, per se.

Just dessert...

2010-01-29T08:16:00.000-08:00

Brownie Sundae with Wet Candied Walnuts

and Shaved Espresso Chocolate

On any given Monday...

2010-01-27T08:56:00.000-08:00

Basically, I just wanted to post these incredibly sexy pictures.

As I've stated in previous posts...I don't follow recipes...it's just not my style. My brain doesn't work that way. I tend to never make the same dish twice, at least not in the same way.

So, you probably won't find any actual recipes on this site...just ideas and jumping off points.

Also note my most prized possesion, my Wusthof santoku.

I have a number of ways to deal with sprouts. Roasted with pancetta and finished with Balsamic. Shaved and sauteed till it's browned and crispy. In a corn bread and bacon stuffing. Recently, I had them as a pizza topping. I often treat them with a rougher hand...I feel that the caramelization brought on by high heat brings out the nuttiness.

But look at them...they demand a gentler touch.

So, I brought some leeks to the party. I don't use leeks as often as I should. I love them, but so often overlook them. However, I love the mild, gentle flavor they bring to a dish. So I decided to introduce the two.

I shaved the leeks and sprouts, after removing the larger outer leaves for some varied texture. The leeks went in first with a bit of olive oil and butter at a low temp, with just a quick squeeze of lemon at the start to add a little brightness.

I let them melt down a bit before adding the sprouts and......truffle butter. I love having that hint of truffle as a hidden, background flavor...like anchovy or fish sauce, just bring on that umami. It's like slipping on some Al Green and turning down the lights.

A splash of heavy cream to thicken and bind and...oh, hell...just because I love it.

Left to do their thing and mingle...a very happy marriage.

Unfortunately, the marriage didn't last long...because I ate them.

On my radar...

2010-01-26T19:07:00.000-08:00

Well, I have a lot of stuff coming up in the near future, so I thought I should share a taste of what is on the menu...

This Sunday is one of the penultimate culinary experiences of my or anyone's lives...I am dining at Per Se. (Cue the sound of angels singing and a light shining from the sky.)

Right after that, Luke's Kitchen is hosting back to back seven course tasting dinners. The first for our more experienced and daring diners and the second to ease newer guests into the format. We also just comitted to doing three tasting dinners during Maplewood's Restaurant Week in March.

We follow that with Super Bowl Sunday and my take on porchetta. I have a fanatical love for all things pork and all things that take hours to cook. I also was very dissapointed with Porchetta in NYC. My turn.

The next few weeks are up in the air, but towards the end of February...The Breslin! I have been a huge fan of The Spotted Pig for awile now and can't wait to try their newest outpost and shrine to meat and gluttony.

So, that's the plan for now...who knows what is going to pop up in the meantime. I mean...it is Restaurant Week in NYC, so anything can happen.

Cooking without a net...

2010-01-26T09:00:00.000-08:00

It starts with an idea...
A classic dish...
A picture...
A memory...
An ingredient...

Then...something else happens...how do you round it out? What do you find at the market? What speaks to you?

I try hard not to go to the market with too much of a plan. That never works well for me. I have actually gathered all the ingredients for a dinner I planned ahead, only to wander around for an hour before putting everything back on the shelf and starting all over with a completely different meal.

Today, it was brussel sprouts and leeks.

That's where it began.

Brussel sprouts are my favorite vegetable and I had them on the brain thanks to The Leftoverist. I started to envision a dish with pan roasted salmon nestled in a bed of melted leeks and brussel sprouts with fingerling potatoes sliced into disks and arranged artfully around the plate with the leaves of the sprouts. Perhaps a mustard-horseradish cream sauce. Perfect...

Until I got to the market.

The salmon didn't look great, especially at over 15 bucks a pound. The only fingerlings available were Purple Peruvians, which are nice, but not for my purposes. Why did I even walk in the door with such expectations? I know better. That's not how I cook.

Some people, like my sister follow recipes. Follow them to a tee. Every detail, every step, every ingredient.

That just isn't me.

So, NY Strip steaks on sale...check. The horseradish goes into mashed potatoes...check. Stick with the melted leeks and sprouts...check. Still needs something...I've had a paprika onion confit idea swirling around lately...check.

Keep an open mind...you never know what may come of it.

The new face of evil...

2010-01-24T07:23:00.000-08:00

So folks, if you are around my age, you may remember a series of Captain Crunch ads from the early to mid-eighties featuring his battles against the Soggies. The Soggies were a milk based race of creatures who committed a number of heinous acts, including kidnapping Spider-Man.

But, their number one nefarious goal...sogging up the Crunch Berries.

Crunch Berries were adorable, singing, dancing and all around kind hearted talking berries. They were pretty much defenseless. So...when the Soggies came a-calling...they had only one hope.

The heroic Captain himself.

He would swoop in and drive away the Soggies in some creative and clever way. The Crunch Berries were saved and every one would celebrate while the Soggies slunk back to their milky lairs.

And then...

Captain Crunch would kill the Crunch Berries to put them in his cereal.

They never show that part though, do they?

One week away...

2010-01-24T06:04:00.000-08:00

Nuff said...

What is a human_ortolan...

2010-01-23T08:58:00.000-08:00

I suppose some explanation is in order.

The ortolan bunting is a small song bird that under goes a rather dramatic culinary transformation. They are blinded or kept in a dark box which causes them to gorge themselves on millet, figs and grapes until they swell to four times their normal size.

At which point they are drowned in Armagnac, plucked and roasted whole.

They are eaten whole, bones cutting into your gums, Armagnac burst into your mouth. Served so hot that you can't chew at first...forcing you to breath in the heady liqour.

All this is done, in a practice credited to Brillat-Savarin, with a cloth or napkin over your head, for two very important reasons. One...to hold in and savor the incredible aromas. Two...to hide your face from God for commiting such an unspeakable act.

This is a bit awful.

This is now illegal in France.

This is how I would like to go if I was to be eaten.

I am currently in the fattening up stages.

Bin 14...a nice find in Hoboken...

2010-01-22T11:30:00.000-08:00

I am not often found dining in Hoboken. I have nothing against the town, I just feel I would rather drive a bit farther and be in the greatest city in the world. My previous favorite meals have been the sliders and a giant mug of Sam Adams for $8.95 at Black Bear.

However, my friend's band April Smith and the Great Picture Show were playing at Maxwell's with Langhorne Slim, so I decided to make a whole night of it. But where to go? Luckily the same NY Times article that mentioned us at the end of the year listed Bin 14 as well.

We entered the narrow restaurant at 7 PM and the place was already bustling with a full bar and only a couple of the dozen or so tables empty. I immediately had a good feeling about the open kitchen, exposed brick and massive wall of wine cubbies. We got a table towards the back, right near the kitchen.

The philosophy of the restaurant was immediately apparent and right up my alley. With a large menu of small dishes meant for sharing and a great wine list available in 2 oz pours, we were encouraged to graze and sample...heaven IS a place on Earth!

Our server, attired in a black t shirt and jeans... again, my style of casual service...was Mike and he instilled us with confidence from the start. We gave him the green light to pair wines for us and then we proceeded to order pretty much half the menu.

Ok, I exaggerate a bit...there was quite a bit that we didn't get to sample...but 11 courses later...we got a pretty good snap shot.

First there were 3 types of bruschetta...Lobster Club, brightly flavored, with copious amounts of lobster, avocado and prosciutto. There was just the right amount of mayo and a touch of celery really stood out for me. The Beef Tartare was a healthy portion that lacked a bit in the seasoning, but that was made up for by the topping of raw quail egg yolk. We also had a special of Foie Gras mousse with the slightest layer of strawberry jam. From the wording, I had expected an actual piece of Foie and not a mousse...however, it was still excellent.

Next came calamari dusted in chick pea flour and served with capers and hot peppers. No clunky marinara...no sauce at all was needed. I have had calamari with chick pea flour before and enjoy it. Our server had said the calamari changed his life...I won't go that far. The mussles on the other hand were transcendent. In a broth of Pernod with caramelized fennel and blood orange, I could have eaten several bowls.

We also had a Brussel Sprout and Pancetta Pizza...I know you are getting jealous by now. This was an inspired combination on a pizza. I love my Brussel Sprouts, as anyone who eats my dinners can vouch for. But even I had never thought to put them on a pizza. They crisped up and caramelized in the pizza oven and the crust was crsp and chewy at the same time. This was a real standout.

More Brussel Sprouts next...this time breaded and fried with...
wait...
for...
it...
sweetbreads!

I love sweetbreads. I never get to have sweetbreads.

So, sweetbreads and Brussel Sprouts and pancetta...
I was about to do my Meg Ryan impression but, once again, I am trying to keep my girlfriend. The only thing I would have done differently would be to cut the sprouts smaller and the pancetta bigger.

At this point we had our first miscue of the evening. The lamb sausage was just OK. It had a very familiar taste and texture which I couldn't identify. My dining companion, Alex, put his finger on it. Chef Boyardee. Not the best...though we still ate every bite, so... not that bad either.

Finally, we shared 3 entrees, which also come in smaller portions...thank God! A gnocchi with oxtail ragout was almost perfect. The gnocchi were soft and pillowy, not chewy and dense, as is too often the case. However, the ragout was a bit too sweet, as is also often the case. Duck risotto was good, not great.
The highlight of the entrees was a taglitelle carbonara with butternut squash and a poached egg. The pasta was soft, delicate and obviously made fresh in-house. The squash was an unusual but welcome touch, perfectly cooked and seasoned, and the warm egg yolk brought just the right level of richness.

Along the way, we tried 6 different wines, the names of which elude me now. At this point we were in a state of mild euphoria. The food ranged from good to excellent, with no single dish being life altering.

The experience, however was one of my all time favorites. Being allowed...no, encouraged, to sample and graze and try so many things...has to be my favorite way to dine. The staff was casual, friendly, yet well informed and professional. It reminded me a bit of my favorite bar, Employees Only, in that I was comfortable enough to let go of the reigns, sit back and let things happen.

And that's how you become an ortolan.

Delis of the world unite...

2010-01-22T10:15:00.000-08:00

Growing up in Elizabeth, one of my fondest memories is getting a Corned Beef and Pastrami sandwich from Goodman's Deli on Elmora Ave. This thick, juicy sandwich slathered with mustard on soft rye bread was my go to treat when having a bad day or feeling under the weather. My Mom always knew that if I had to stay home from school that she should stop there on the way home from work.

One day a few years ago, I was having one of those bad days. So I took the ride over to Goodman's only to find a Mexican restaurant! What?!?!? How could this happen. The place was an institution. I am not ashamed to say that I actually shed a tear. Remember the scene in Grosse Point Blank when John Cusack returns to his childhood home to find a convenience store? It was just like that.

I recently moved to Berkeley Heights and on one of my first shopping trips....there it was. Nestled in to a strip mall(this is, after all, New Jersey) next to a Stop and Shop and a Tae Kwon Do studio...

Goodman's Deli.

As Coldplay said, "God put a smile upon my face." I rushed in through the doors and took a deep breath.

The deli was bigger, newer, maybe cleaner. But the smell. The smell was still there. Steaming trays of meat, pastrami and corned beef. The faint smell of pickles, already wrapped in wax paper. The smell of my childhood.

I told the owner my story and of how happy I was to be right down the street once again. I get in there once every week or so now. A few weeks ago, when my girlfriend was sick, I brought her a sandwich and some matzo ball soup, just like I used to have when I was sick. Today, they asked me how she was feeling. That is what you get when a place has heart

Delis of the world...learn a lesson...this is how it's done.

Also... I have graduated to pastrami and tongue....do yourself a favor and click on this picture for a full screen shot...

Hilarity ensues...

2010-01-21T12:37:00.000-08:00

So, I found this flowchart to help out the decision making process. One has to love the fact that bacon is always eaten. Thanks to Audrey Fukman and Andy Wright at SFoodie.

Whistle while you work...

2010-01-20T10:56:00.000-08:00

I work at Luke's Kitchen in Maplewood New Jersey.
It is tiny.
11 tables.
It is also a dream come true.

The chef/ owner has been a friend of mine for 6 years. He is an amazing chef with an incredible background. Simple food, done perfectly.

But that doesn't tell the whole story.

I work alone in the front of the house...wearing my normal clothes, listening to my music, serving people in my style. It's a revelation.

I've spent the last several years in management at some pretty big restaurants. They were great...I learned a lot. But somewhere, I stopped enjoying it. I got in this business because I didn't want to wear a suit and sit at a desk and I spent way too much time doing just that.

So, now I get to welcome people into my home each day. And I love it. So come check it out...I think you just might like it.

That was the self-promotion portion of this blog...please forgive me.

A New Year...

2010-01-20T09:52:00.000-08:00

So...
I guess I should start by telling you all a bit about myself.

I am about to turn 34.
I live in North Jersey.

I love food.

I have been in the restaurant business my entire adult life. I read books about food. I check all the food blogs. I take day long 'culinary adventures' into NYC. I have driven 1 1/2 hours to Waffle House at 2AM...passing one Waffle House to get to a better one. I cook dinner for my friends every Monday. My girlfriend gets mad at me because I sometimes hump her leg when talking about food.

She's going to kill me for that one.

So...I love food.

I have thought about starting a blog for awhile...what better time then now?

What to expect...
Details of my dining experiences...dinners at home...restaurants i visit...

Tales of my workplace...the restaurant I work at was named in the NY Times most memorable dining experiences of 2009...and they have no idea what goes on when no one is watching.

My thoughts on food and cooking...trends, philosophies and ingredients.

Also, I suppose, my thoughts life in general...