The truth about Charlie's...

 

Anybody here been to Kenilworth, NJ?

Anybody been to Charlie's?

Let's fix that...

Charlie's is sells the most amazing sandwiches. Half a loaf of pizza bread stuffed with cheesesteak, hot dogs or sausages. Peppers and onions. All topped with fried potatoes. 

My mother loved it.

My girlfriend loved it.

Even my friends from Philly loved it.

And you will love it.

Just knock some of the potatoes off and eat them like chips.  Shove the rest in the sandwich and go to town. I highly recommend a cherry soda for your beverage.

The place itself used to be cooler when it was stuck in the 50's...but who cares. 

The sandwich is where it's at.

I got a crush on this sandwich.

I got a crush on this sandwich.
I made this video from some pics taken last year in the Dominican Republic. I felt remiss if I didn't share it with the rest of the world.
I am so sorry Eric, but you will soon become an international sensation. Prepare for the bombardment by paparazzi.
Just click the link above.

Almost perfect...

Start with some beautiful ingredients...

cook them with care...

and then...

blow the final picture with poor lighting...

Oh well, it was almost perfect.

The Breslin...decadence refined...

Why?

Why would they put me here?

I mean...right here?

So close to the kitchen...and more importantly...so close to the table reserved for large groups being served a whole roasted pig.

Did they really think I would be able to maintain my composure? With the smells of crackling pork wafting in my direction? With a man, mere feet away, yanking off the ear to snack on? With a menu that seems designed specifically with me in mind.

The Breslin has just lept into the pantheon of greats for me. Built around some of the most decadent dishes imaginable, The Breslin feels more like The Spotted Pig's big brother than the baby in the family. The spacious bar was already crowded when we arrived a bit before six on a Wednesday. Luckily, we beat most of the dinner crowd. We sat right next to the large table overlooking the kitchen. The table that has a limited menu. Whole pig and sides. Apparently, the pig's name was Owen, according to our server. Well, Owen...I am sorry we did not get to meet tonight...but soon I shall return.

The dining room is bigger than the Pig's, but you can see the family resemblance. Half the staff wore the Spotted Pig's iconic t-shirts. The decor was also eclectic and comfortable, though a bit cramped. On my next trip I would request one of the private booths with curtains and a dimmer to let you control the light. Or a table upstairs, which I hear is a bit less cramped...

Or THAT table...

The big one with the pig on it.

But I digress, back to the meal I actually had. The menu has a section labeled "Snacks", I suggest you start there. There was a nice selection of slightly obscure dishes to choose from, fom scotch egg to scrumpets. I think I could make a great meal just from this under$10 section of the menu.

We started with Fanny Bay oysters and dill pickle juice. Fanny Bays are my favorite and as good as the pickle juice was, I like my oysters straight up...so not a dish I would do again, but it was delicious.

Then we moved into my territory. Fried headcheese and scrumpets with mint vinegar. The headcheese was just what I was looking for when we picked The Breslin. The wonderful feeling of gelatin coating your mouth, the inherant pork flavor all surrounded by crispy, fried goodness. To quote the Hawaiian Punch guy, "Oh Yeah!"

The scrumpets were a first to me. Our server descibed them as looking like mozzarella sticks, but filled with braised lamb. Perfect. The lamb flavor was prevalent and the texture was great. It came with red wine vinegar loaded with fresh mint. Why do they serve that nasty mint jelly with lamb, the don't know that they should do it this way, I guess

Are we seeing a trend yet? Delicious, decadent food...fried? So what could be next?

Let's take a pig trotter, a whole foreshank really, and braise it. Then let's pull out all the meat and grind it with some braised shoulder. Then, let's stuff it back into to the skin and...deep fry it.

No, really.

First of all, this thing was huge, at least 12 inches. The outermost layer was crispy breadcumbs, followed by skin and a lyer of fat. Inside, the most delicate, most refined Scrapple on the planet. That is the only way to describe it. The dish was served with vinegary brussles sprouts and sweet braised shallots. We added on roasted fennel and thrice-cooked chips.

The service was charming and informed. David, our server, was helpful with suggestions and had a lot of fun with us.Several people came by for different reasons, and all seemed to be honestly excited to be serving this food. I personally can't wait to go back. I suggest you bring a larger group and sample as many dishes as possible. The one draw back of the pig's foot was that it was so much of the same thing. Bring some friends and try some things. I am looking foward to the charcuterie plate and scotch egg next time around.

Unless, of course, that next time is my inevitable visit to THAT table...the one with the pig on it...the one calling out to me....

A view from the grill...

I am really glad I got that birthday dinner in when I did...that's our grill in the foreground.

Sad news...

Well, folks, I am sure that most of you have received the sad news that El Bulli is closing.

I must admit, that it wasn't on my list of places to visit before I die, however, I now regret the fact that I will now never get the chance. It's like not seeing Avatar on an IMAX screen in 3D. It may not be exactly your cup of tea, but you are truly missing something if you don't have the experience. It is unique...unlike any other thing of the same nature. I have never been a fan of foams and airs, but that isn't all that El Bulli was about. Ferran Adria challenged long standing notions about what IS food/cooking. He stretched boundaries and inspired a generation of cooks to look beyond the box. While I may never get to El Bulli...perhaps a visit to Wylie is in order...you know...in the name of science...



On a much more personal note...


Shake Shack is not coming to Lower Manhattan.

Apparently the residents of Nolita have no interest in easy access to the most delicious burgers around. What is wrong with these people? Has the garlic gone to their brains? There are few things as satisfying as a Shack Burger. And few things as frustrating as the journey uptown that must accompany it. I know Danny Meyer plans on expanding the Shake Shack empire.

Good.
Put one on my block.
Please.

As if I wasn't on a hamburger kick already...I am now inspired to seek out the greatest burgers I can. I will share them with you my friends.

 

We begin our journey with Five Guys Burgers and Fries. Get yourself a Double Patty Bacon Cheeseburger all the way. Skip the cajun seasoning on the fries. Wash it all down with a Mr. Pibb. Get some extra napkins. You will need them. Not a bad way to tide myself over until I get to the Shack.

Just a link...

There is a great article in the NY Times about one of my favorite varietals.

A look back...

 The invention of cooking is considered to be the single greatest step  in the evolution of man.

Hardwired into our genetic makeup through centuries of evolution is an intense love of meat and fire. It may have allowed us to evolve, but few things get men  grunting like the guy from Home Improvement faster than firing up the grill and throwing on a big piece of meat. 

However, man has always had a respect for the process. The history of animal sacrifice is first documented in Crete in 2000 BC. The Minoans discovered guilt for killing a living thing and sacrificed part of the animal back to the gods.

So, for my birthday dinner, in thanks of the years on this Earth that I have been graced with, I boned out two legs of lamb and marinated them in garlic, thyme and rosemary. The meal was both reverent and primal.

However, I doubt that even the ancient Greek gods got these fantastic confit potatoes cooked in duck fat for 2 hours.

Thanks to all those in attendance for helping me ring in another year. And to all of you who couldn't make it...we look forward...

Tasting dinners...

This week we hosted two tasting dinners at Luke's Kitchen.

Serving seven courses to thirty people with only two people in the kitchen and one in the front is a challenge to say the least. It is also a lot of fun.
We have committed ourselves to holding these dinners every month...so if you haven't been yet...you will get a chance soon.

The Tuesday night dinner was dubbed the "advanced" menu by Rod. Our guest list was filled with friends and family...all diners who know and trust us. We felt comfortable taking some more chances and challenging their pallettes. Sea urchin, frog's legs, sweetbreads and tripe were all featured. Many of these were first time experiences for our guests. I just wish I could have sat down to join them. Some of the highlights...

Sea Urchin and Lobster Custard

Just a small bite that started off the dinner. Bright clean flavors and a silken texture. This dish reminded me of my Oyster and Pearls course at Per Se.

Roasted Byaldi over Fennel and Onion Marmalade

I love this dish...amazing colors and great flavor. We served this with lamb chops and a honey and spice gastrique.

Frogs Legs

So many people have never had frog's legs. Their mild flavor makes them a safe gateway into trying new things. As the saying goes...they taste like chicken...almost. We served these with lobster and sweetbreads with lobster broth, garlic and basil.


Roasted Veal Breast

Melt in your mouth tender. Stuffed with prosciutto and bread stuffing. Wrapped in caul fat. This was absolutely decadent and delicious.

Per Se...

Palms sweaty like a teenager going to his first school dance, my hands were shaking with excitement and nerves as I approached the famous blue door of Per Se.

I have been waiting for this for a long time.

Per Se is a Mecca for culinarians...a once-in-a-lifetime experience. The New York outpost of chef Thomas Keller. A serene oasis located in the midst of a Manhattan mall.

It is also where I had lunch today.

Our coats were taken and we were led past the salon to our table on the dais level of the dining room. We sat, not in chairs, but on a cushioned bench with a breathtaking view of Central Park. The dining room was smaller than I had always imagined, and quiet.

I can't tell you how nervous i was...almost awkward. This is out of my realm of expertise. A crowded room...hustle and bustle...controlled chaos...those are the traits I am most used to in the dining rooms I frequent. Again, I was taken back to those prepubescent days in a darkened school cafeteria, when each decision weighed heavy. Which wine to choose? Which menu tasting menu? Who do I dance with?

Well, at least this time I could count on some wine to help me relax.

We started with the famous Gruyere gougeres, light pastry filled with a molten cheese center. The salmon tartare cornets with creme fraiche, more delicate than I had imagined.  My nerves were settling and the reality set in...I am eating at Per Se. Next, the famous Oysters and Pearls, another Keller signature, A taste of the sea and texture of a cloud. Now I was dancing to a song I knew...with the prettiest girl in school.

And then she kissed me...

'She' being the truffle custard with truffle ragout and chive chip.




It doesn't look like much...but, my God.

This dish was so rich, so smooth, so perfect. The ragout was sticky and unctuous, the heady aroma of truffles permeating the rich reduced veal stock. The custard just melted...ethereal ...ghostly on the tongue.
Even the chive chip, an aspect of this dish I had never considered exciting, was a revelation. Crisp, barely there, delicious.

I can die happy now. What could top this dish?

But wait...what's this? Is that foie gras? All of that? No, that can't ALL be foie gras can it? I've had foie gras...but not like this. That is practically a mound of fattened duck liver. Served with oat crisps, candied walnuts, persiminon puree and toasted brioche. Foie gras in a quantity that said, "Eat Me!" a quantity that encouraged you to slather...not savor. Paired with a vintage Sauternes, perhaps the epitomy of decadence.

A note on service...after a few minutes passed the servers replaced our toasted brioche. We weren't done with the brioche we had...it just wasn't warm anymore. That was one of the nicest touches of the night.

At this point I was literally rocking back and forth with my eyes closed, humming to myself. Really.

Columbia River Sturgeon over a whole mustard coleslaw that was sweet and vinegary and bright. The sturgeon had a flavor that I can only place as Kentucky Fried Chicken, only the very best part of the fat and skin. Also, the best carrots ever. Ever.

Next up, butter poached lobster, duck gizzard tortellini and sauce hydromel. This was the first course that wasn't an out of the park home run. The lobster was cooked to perfection, but I felt it was overpowered by the sweetness of the sauce. Hydromel is a sauce made with mead or honey-wine. It had some sort of asian flavors as well. The sauce paired better with the tortellini, which had an amazing texture and mouth feel, but not enough gizzard flavor for me.

But then...

We went behind the bleachers...

All Day Braised Salmon Creek Farm Pork Belly. Are you kidding me? This was amazing. Pork belly. By Thomas Keller. What did you think was going to happen? This was a no brainer for me. The unexpected surprise came from the Scarlett turnips. Served roasted, braised, confit and shaved raw...the flavors, textures and colors were breathtaking. Did I fail to mention the tempura fried turnip greens? Forgive me. Notice the knife in the picture, I almost forgot to take a picture on this one.

Snake River Farms Calotte de Boeuf. I believe that Calotte translates as "Oh my God, that's good." Not sure on that one. Perfectly cooked, tender and well seasoned. Served with the best Bernaise I have ever had. Do yourself a favor and read the essay on Hollandaise in The French Laundry cookbook. Also, the best beets ever. The real star of the dish...the pommes Bouchon...that's the cylinder in the back. Our server, Olivia, told us they are cooked for hours in stock and butter. I need to know more. I must know...


At this point I am in a reverie. It can't get any better...

So they start bringing me desserts. Plural. For another hour.

I have never eaten so many sweets in my life.

First was Peanuts and Popcorn...popcorn sherbet with ground popcorn and salt and pepper Virginia peanuts. Just like cracker jacks. This is part of why I love Chef Keller's philosophy. This man, who has dedicated his career to a search of perfection maintains a sense of whimsy and humor. I respect a chef who isn't afraid to be a bit irreverant and play with their food.

Hence, Coffee and Doughnuts.

I will follow the recipe.


I will follow the recipe.

I will follow the recipe.

The cappucino semifreddo was worth it.





More desserts...chocolate mousse...pot au creme...variations on pear...peanut butter truffles...creme brulee...caramels...tiny pulled sugar candies bursting with flavor...too much dessert. I asked our server which part of the floor I was allowed to roll around on. Please stop. My head is spinning. It hurts.Not another bite.

 

  

 

Wait...did you say curry chocolate candy? Olive oil white chocolate candy? Fennel? Pink peppercorn? Ok... maybe just  a few more bites. The curry chocolate may actually have been THE highlight of this incredible meal.

And then, it was over. Stretched out over four hours...and gone in a flash.

Awash in a mix of emotions, unsure whether to laugh or cry. yearning for a chance to do it all over again.

So...yeah...just like a school dance, per se.